The Restaurant Reporter Special Edition - The out-of-towners: The best spots around the country for a romantic winter dinner are just beyond city limits. - Bon Appétit Magazine - February 2005 - by Tanya Wenman Steel WEST CHESTER, PA MILES FROM PHILADELPHIA: 35 For 22 years, Peter Gilmore worked at Philadelphia's Le Bec-Fin, helping Georges Perrier execute flawless French fare. Four years ago, he and his wife, Susan, found a place to call their own - an 18th-century townhouse on West Chester's main street. "I didn't intend GILMORE'S to be a destination restaurant," he says. "I wanted it to be a comfortable family restaurant." He achieved this by making it BYOB and keeping it to 11 tables, trying to replicate the intimacy of the original Le Bec-Fin on Spruce Street. Gilmore may be inspired by French cuisine, but he's armed with mid-Atlantic tools: The wild mushrooms in the ragout are local, the foie gras served with grilled pineapple is from New York State, and the lump crab bound with shrimp mousse and served in a lemon beurre blanc comes from the next big city south of here, Baltimore.